Mistakes to avoid when knitting bags vertically

Bags woven vertically (from the bottom up, usually in a round or by building walls from a base) are very forgiving… but they also have their “critical points.” Sometimes the bag opens up, twists, develops a wavy edge, or the handles eventually give way under the weight.

The good news: these mistakes are almost always easy to spot and correct if you know where to look . Here are the most common errors when crocheting vertical bags with t-shirt yarn or cord, and, most importantly, how to avoid them so the result is sturdy and has a clean finish.

Index

1. What does it mean to knit a bag “vertically”?
2. Error 1: wavy or oddly shaped base
3. Error 2: not marking the base/wall break
4. Error 3: Invisible increases (or unintentional decreases)
5. Error 4: uneven tension (the most noticeable)
6. Error 5: crooked spiral or ugly joint
7. Error 6: Loose or wavy top edge
8. Error 7: Handles that give way or become deformed
9. Error 8: Proportions that don't work
10. Error 9: poorly concealed ends and threads
11. Final checklist (before considering it finished)
12. Recommended materials

What does it mean to knit a bag “vertically”?

In this context, “vertically” usually means:

• Knit a base (circular or oval) and then build up the walls .
• Build the body of the bag round by round (in a spiral or by closing rounds).

It is an ideal method for candy boxes, sack-type bags, round shoppers and bags with a simple structure without side seams.

Error 1: wavy or oddly shaped base

If the base is already wavy, the rest of the bag will inherit that deformation.

Signals

• The circle/oval does not stay flat.
• The edge “makes waves” or curls.

Why does this happen?

• Too many increases.
• Tension too loose.
• Uncontrolled point count.

How to avoid it

• Count stitches at the end of each base round (especially the first few).
• Use a starting marker and, if the base is large, also mark every 20 points.
• If it's wavy, reduce increases or knit a little tighter.

Error 2: not marking the base/wall break

It's the classic: you finish the base and, as you go up, the fabric tries to stay flat and the "hat" effect appears.

How to avoid it

• Make a transition round to mark the break (e.g., knit a round picking up only the back loop/BLO).
• Another option is a slip stitch (loosely) if you want a more subtle break.

Error 3: Invisible increases (or unintentional decreases)

In vertical knitting, it's very common to add increases without realizing it (or skip stitches), especially with thick materials.

Signals

• The bag is slowly opening.
• Or the opposite: it narrows without you seeking it.

How to avoid it

• Start marker ALWAYS.
• Do a count every 2-3 laps when starting walls.
• If you change your location, double-check the count: some locations are visually misleading.

Error 4: uneven tension (the most noticeable)

In bags, tension accounts for 80% of the final look. With t-shirt yarn and cord, a small change makes a big difference.

Signals

• At first glance, there are more open areas and others that are more closed.
• The bag has "bellies" or areas that sag.

How to avoid it

• Knit in similar sessions (if you knit very fast today and with different tension tomorrow, it will be noticeable).
• Before continuing, knit 10–15 “test” stitches and adjust your hand (looser or tighter).
• If your sample doesn't fit, adjust the tension manually or change the needle/hook size until you get the right size.

Error 5: crooked spiral or ugly joint

In spirals, the start of the turn shifts; in tight turns, the jump is noticeable. Both have solutions.

How to avoid it

• If you knit in a spiral, assume that the beginning shifts and plan color changes with technique (so that there is no step).
• If you knit in closed rounds, try to make the closure discreet (relaxed slip stitch and stable tension).
• In minimalist bags, many people prefer spiral patterns for uniformity.

Error 6: Loose or wavy top edge

The top edge is a stress zone (it opens, closes, supports handles, etc.). If it becomes loose, the bag loses its shape.

How to avoid it

• Finish off firmly: 1–2 rounds of compact single crochet or one round of loose slip stitch.
• If the bag is going to carry weight, reinforce it more (extra layer + lining).

Error 7: Handles that give way or become deformed

The handles are the critical point of the bag. Even if the body is perfect, if the handles give way, the bag loses its finish.

Typical mistakes

• Anchor the handle at a single point.
• Do not reinforce the inner area.
• Choose a loose stitch for the knitted handle.

How to avoid it

• Distribute the anchoring across several points.
• Reinforce from the inside (ideal if there is a lining).
• If the bag is going to be heavy, consider straps made of webbing/faux leather/rigid pieces to distribute the weight.

Error 8: Proportions that don't work

Sometimes the bag is well woven… but it doesn't “work” when used: it opens too high, it's too tall for its base, or it's uncomfortable on the shoulder.

How to avoid it

• Test it out: when you're wearing it halfway up, place markers where the handles will go and "simulate" using it.
• If the bag is tall, compensate with a wider base or internal reinforcement.
• For everyday bags, prioritize a sturdy top edge and well-designed handles.

Error 9: poorly concealed ends and threads

On handbags, the hems are very visible. And because of the friction, if they're not well done, they can show through.

How to avoid it

• Hide strands in various directions (not in a single straight line).
• Reinforce stress points (color start/end, handle joints, closure).
• If you're going to line it, take advantage of it: the lining hides and protects the edges.

Final checklist (before considering it finished)

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Most "flaws" in vertically stitched bags can be solved with two habits: stitch marker and counting (to avoid altering stitches) and consistent tension (for a clean finish). If you also reinforce the edges and handles, the bag will be beautiful and durable from the first use.