Bags woven widthwise vs lengthwise: how the final shape changes
When working with t-shirt yarn (and crochet in general), the direction you crochet in greatly affects the final result: the drape, the stiffness, whether the bag opens up more, whether it has a more structured shape, or whether it loses its shape with use. In this article, I explain the difference between crocheting across and crocheting lengthwise , with clear examples and tips for choosing the right approach depending on the type of bag you want.
- What does knitting across vs lengthwise mean (and why does it matter)
- How the final shape changes: base, walls and opening
- Which option is best depending on the style of bag
- Tips to avoid warping and achieve a firmer finish
Table of Contents
What is wide and long knitting
When we talk about “knitting across” or “knitting lengthwise”, it is not a universal rule of knitting, but a practical way of describing the main direction of the knitting in relation to the bag:
Knitting across usually means that the rounds/rows build the bag "from side to side" (for example, you knit a rectangular piece where the width of the piece will be the height of the bag, or you work in strips that wrap around).
Knitting lengthwise usually means that the rounds/rows progress "from bottom to top" (for example, you start at the base and go up walls in the round or flat).
This is more noticeable with t-shirt yarn because the material has thickness and weight . And the weight causes some bags to sag if the weaving isn't oriented to support the structure.
How the final shape of the bag changes
The direction of tissue affects three key things:
- Rigidity and sagging: where the bag gives way most under weight.
- Deformation: if the bag "opens" or widens with use.
- Visual finish: lines, ribs, texture and how the eye “reads” the design.
Knitting across: advantages, limitations and uses
Knitting across the width often results in a bag with a very visible texture and a more "knitted piece" look. It's common in bags constructed with panels (two rectangles + sides) or in designs where you want the texture to be the main focus.
Advantages
- The texture and pattern look very clear and "orderly".
- Easy to adapt: lengthening/shortening panels changes proportions without touching increases.
- Ideal for envelope bags, clutches, simple totes or geometric designs.
Limits (and how they are noticeable in t-shirt yarn)
- It may give more in the direction of the weight, especially in large bags.
- If the side seams are not secure, the bag may lose its shape.
- If you use very high or very open stitches, the bag may "open up" with use.
Simple tote bags, clutches , pouches and designs where you want a marked texture, with or without lining.
Knitting lengthwise: advantages, limitations and uses
Knitting lengthwise (most typically: base + walls ) usually results in a bag with a more controlled structure , especially when working in the round and defining the base from the beginning.
Advantages
- You control the size from the base and the shape is better maintained.
- Fewer seams (sometimes none), which reduces "weak" points.
- Ideal for bags with capacity: shopper, bucket, shoulder bag, basket-style handbag.
Boundaries
- If the base augmentations are not evenly distributed, it may wavy or bulge.
- It requires controlling the tension so that the walls rise straight.
- The texture can be more "vertical" and less prominent (depending on the point).
Everyday bags, shoppers , bucket bags and designs where you want stability and a good base.
How to choose according to the type of bag
Here's a simple guide to help you decide:
- I want a firm bag, with a clear shape and that can withstand weight → start from the base and go up the walls.
- I want a quick, flat, pouch or clutch bag → woven panels (widthwise) + clean seams.
- I want a geometric, “architectural” tote bag → rectangular base or panels with defined sides.
- I want a bucket/sack bag → round base and round sides.
And if you're hesitating between two approaches: with t-shirt yarn , prioritizing structure is usually more rewarding. The bag is used, it has weight, it's placed on surfaces… and that's where it shows.
Tricks to make it stable (without deforming)
- Tight tension: If the stitch is too loose, the bag will sag more. Adjust the tension or the crochet hook size.
- Firm points: for structure, the low point is usually the best ally.
- Back strand (BLO): in some areas it creates a "rib" that provides shape and definition.
- Changing turn: When finishing the base, a turn taking only one strand helps to raise straighter walls.
- Reinforced handles and joints: the prettiest point is useless if the handle pulls and deforms.
- Lining or rigid base: if you want a pro level, a small reinforcement changes the result.
Extra tip: For large bags, avoid overly high stitches if you're looking for a stable shape. The more "open" the stitch, the more the weight of the yarn will be noticeable with use.
Related tutorials
If you want to go from concept to practice, here are three step-by-step tutorials for knitting bags from scratch:
-
T-shirt yarn bag with oval base
Versatile, balanced and perfect for everyday use. -
T-shirt yarn bag with round base
Ideal for bucket or sack bags. -
T-shirt yarn bag made from a rectangular base
More geometric and with a marked structure.
Conclusion
Knitting horizontally or horizontally isn't "better or worse": it's a design choice. But with t-shirt yarn, where weight matters, the knitting direction often makes the difference between a bag that holds its shape and one that loses its form with use.
If you want stability and control, start with the base and work your way up. If you're looking for a bold texture or a flat bag, build it in panels. And if you're unsure, try a small sample: with t-shirt yarn, you can quickly see how the material responds.
