How to raise the sides of a round crocheted bag without deforming it

You crochet the base, everything goes perfectly… and as soon as you start raising the walls, the bag spreads, ripples, “flattens out,” or ends up with a strange angle. Don’t worry: it doesn’t mean you’re doing it wrong. This is one of the most delicate areas of a crocheted bag worked in the round, because you’re going from a flat plane (the base) to a three-dimensional shape (the walls), and that change requires a carefully controlled technique and tension.

In this article, I’ll show you several methods (and pro tips) for raising the walls without distortion, choosing the option that best suits your material, stitch, and desired finish.

Table of contents

1. Why the walls become misshapen as they rise
2. Before raising the wall: 3 quick checks
3. Method 1: Creating the angle (BLO / back loop)
4. Method 2: “Turning point” with slip stitch or a transition round
5. Method 3: Build up by working along the edge (straighter wall)
6. Common mistakes and how to fix them
7. Which method to choose based on the material and stitch
8. Frequently asked questions
9. Recommended materials

Why the walls become misshapen as they rise

When you crochet a base in the round, you increase stitches to keep the circle/oval flat. If, when starting the walls:

• you keep increasing unintentionally (through an error or by miscounting stitches), the base spreads and ripples;
• your tension is too loose, the wall does not “hold” and sags;
• you don't mark the bend between the base and the wall, the fabric tries to stay flat and a “hat” effect appears;
• your material is stretchy, the bag is highly sensitive to any change in hand or stitch.

The key is simple: create a clean angle and keep the stitch count stable during the first wall rounds.

Before raising the wall: 3 quick checks

1. Count the stitches in the last base round and write down the number. This number should (normally) remain the same when starting the wall.
2. Shape it by hand: place the base on a table and gently “push” the edge upward. If it already ripples while flat, the base has too many stitches or the tension is too loose.
3. Mark the beginning of the round with a stitch marker. Many distortions come from losing track of the beginning and unintentionally adding increases.

Method 1: Creating the angle (BLO / back loop)

This is the most commonly used method for making the base “fold” naturally and the wall rise straight. It involves working the first wall round through the back loop only (BLO). This creates a “line” on the outside that marks the bend between the base and the wall.

How it’s done (step by step)

1. Finish the last base round and make sure of the stitch count.
2. In the next round (the first wall round), work your stitch (single crochet, waistcoat stitch, half double crochet…) through the back loop only of each stitch.
3. In the following rounds, crochet normally again (working through both loops), keeping the same number of stitches.

When it works best

• If you want a clean angle and a wall with good shape.
• If the bag will be unlined or have medium structure (because the break line looks attractive).
• With compact stitches (single crochet, centered single crochet) and materials with good structure.

Pro tip

If you notice the edge flaring out as you build up, work 2 consecutive rounds in BLO (only for very elastic materials), then continue as normal. This “sets” the angle.

Method 2: “Turning point” with slip stitch or a transition round

Another way to prevent distortion is to create a transition round that “locks” the edge in place. This is useful when you don’t like BLO or when your main stitch already creates texture and you prefer a more subtle break.

Option A: 1 round of slip stitch (through both loops)

1. Once you finish the base, work one complete round of slip stitch (without increasing or decreasing).
2. Then start the walls with your usual stitch.

Advantage: it reinforces the edge and marks the change with a very subtle line.
Watch out: slip stitch tightens the work. Keep your hand relaxed so you don’t shrink the perimeter.

Option B: 1 “firm” round in very tight single crochet

If you’re going to work the walls with a taller stitch (half double crochet, double crochet), it can help to work a transition round in tight single crochet to stabilize it.

Method 3: Build up by working along the edge (straighter wall)

This method creates a very straight, structured wall. It’s often used when you want a bag with a “boxy” profile (more architectural). Instead of working into the stitches of the last round, you work into the edge of the fabric (the side strands), as if you were “raising” the wall.

How it’s done

1. Finish the base.
2. Insert the hook into the edge of the stitch (the side strand) and work a single crochet (or the stitch you’re using) around, keeping an even stitch count.
3. Continue working in the round as normal.

Important: the stitch count may vary here depending on how you “pick up” the edge. If you do this, it’s a good idea to mark every 10–20 stitches and check that you aren’t adding extra stitches.

Common mistakes and how to fix them

1) “Hat” effect (rippling outward)

• Cause: there are too many stitches (unintentional increases) or your tension is too loose.
• Quick fix: undo 1–2 rounds and repeat the transition (BLO or slip stitch), keeping track of the stitch count.
• Fix if you’re already well underway: work a round of gentle decreases (for example, 1 decrease every 12–16 stitches) and continue straight. Fewer, evenly spaced decreases are better.

2) It “pulls” inward (it closes too much)

• Cause: tension is too tight, or a slip-stitch round is too taut.
• Fix: switch to a slightly looser stitch (same hook, more relaxed hand) or remove the slip-stitch round.

3) “Peaks” appear or the bend is uneven

• Cause: the round start has shifted without a marker, or the stitch count is inconsistent.
• Fix: use a round-start marker and count every 2–3 rounds. If the bag is large, also mark every 20 stitches with additional markers.

Which method to choose based on the material and stitch

Frequently asked questions

Do I always have to maintain the same number of stitches as I work upward?

For most bags, yes: when starting the wall, you normally should not increase. Later, if you want to shape it (widening, narrowing, a bucket-style base…), you can make increases or decreases, but only after stabilizing the bend.

How many rounds are “critical” when starting the walls?

The first 2–4 rounds of the wall. If those are firm and the angle is clearly defined, the bag will usually rise straight without surprises.

What should I do if the base is already wavy before the walls start?

The problem isn’t in the walls: it’s in the increases on the base. The solution is to adjust the rate of increases (fewer increases) or crochet with more tension so the circle/oval lies flat.

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Final tip: if you only apply one change, make it this: mark the bend (BLO or transition) and count stitches when starting the walls. That combination is 80% of the success.